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What the fluff? Wool Guide

Who knew there were so many types of wool. Sadly, it’s all too easy to buy the wrong type! So hold tight folks, as we break down wool for you and provide a little clarity.

Wool Terminology

Carded: The word ‘carded’, in relation to any of the wools we sell, means the wool has been brushed so the fibres lay in different directions, making it much easier to needle felt. Using wool that has been carded will speed along the felting process, especially when sculpting a 3D object.

Batts: Carded wool that comes off the carder in a thick sheet or pad. It makes it easy to separate and peel into thin sheets. When using batts to start a core body you pull off strips and roll them tightly, then needle felt to hold together.

Silvers: Carded wool that has been formed into a long, thin, tubular, rope-like piece and comes in a roll. Is is particularly good for knotting and then wrapping round the knot to start off your core body.

5 Types of Wool

We sell five types of felting wool, all tried and tested by ourselves and our students in our beginner’s workshops.

Carded Maori Batts
Carded Merino Batts
Carded Slivers
Tops / Roving
Speciality Wool
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The right prick! Needle Guide

Anatomy of the Needle

The needles used in needle felting are no ordinary needles! They have little nicks cut into the shaft, called barbs. The barbs are what catch and mesh together the fibres by knotting and tangling it. The more you stab, the more fibres will be picked up and entangled, and the denser the wool will become.

It’s that simple, but remember safety first!


Important: The needles are quite brittle, so ensure you pull the needle in & out at the same angle. If you stab, then pull it out at a different angle, the needle will snap. They are extremely sharp!

Triangle Needle

- Barbs on three sides
- For creating 3D shapes

Star Needle

- Barbs on four sides
- Barbs are close to the tip
- For shallow felting & smoothing

Twist Needle

- Needle length is twisted
- For fast felting
- Leaves less holes in work

Needle Gauge Rule: “The smaller the number the larger the needle”

Needle felting needles are often labelled as a number followed by a G, e.g. 38G. The G stands for gauge, which means thickness. Unlike microns (that tell us the thickness of our woolly fibres), the gauge numbers work inversely. The smaller the gauge number, the larger the needle!

Our Beginner’s Needle Recommendations

38g Twisted Star

• Best all-rounder needle
• Barbs on four sides
• For faster felting
• Leaves fewer holes in work

Needle Felting Starter Set

• Has a range of gauges
• Includes Beginner’s guide
• Good for exploring and deciding what you prefer

What's in your toolkit? Tool Guide

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Which kit is your right fit? Kits Guide

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Words you need to know! Needle Felting Dictionary

We’ve compiled a guide of all the terms you need to know about needle felting as a handy reference if you come across an unfamiliar term. Click the link below to have a look!

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